Sunday, September 11, 2011

Russian Leather Cologne Aftershave

The term Russian Leather can not be copyrighted for a fragrance according to a decision of the United States Copyright Office. It is a generic term. That is likely the reason that so many different Russian Leather colognes and aftershaveshad been available through the first seven decades of the 20th Century. (An availability that for some unknown reason [lest perhaps the lack of affiliation with a major fragrance manufacturer], has not continued into the 21st century.) Russian Leather fragrance is supposed to have been based on the smell of a certain type of leather that per legend only the Russian aristocracywas allowed to possess!
One author in writing of Imperial del Oro Russian Leather noted: 'But Birch Oil is probably the most important scent ingredient that gives real
Russian Leather it's characteristic smell....It is natural for man also to include salicylates in his perfumes as well and
especially essential to create a Russian Leather fragrance. ...[H]eavy animal fat such as whale oil was also traditionally used in the process of
making Russian Leather; it softened the leather and preserved it as well as its
distinctive scent. Today, synthetic scent molecules and fixatives are used to
produce the same rounding harmonizing effect in perfume... As a final step in preparing actual Russian Leather, it is treated with Birch
oil, Sandalwood resin and Gutta percha(yet another type of tree resin) mixture
to give it increased strength and a pleasing color. But the animal fat and Gutta
percha do not leave the leather yet with an acceptable smell, so a mix of
benzoin, tonka beans, orris root and more sandalwood are used to sweeten its
scent yet more. So finally a list of notes from which we can imaginatively build
our Russian Leather cologne: white flowers (tuberose and lily of the valley),
essences of birch bud oil, pine and willow tree saps, Styrax flower and benzion,
sandalwood, plus a synthetic animal-like fat molecule for fixative. And
something you do not see mentioned from actual Russian leather preparations but
that is smelled in the cologne (and perfumes), is hesperides or citrus. In
Imperial Russian Leather there seems to be a gebination of fresh green bergamot
and a sweeter orange note. So even though I can't find an explicit list of notes for this vintage Russian Leather made by Imperial Del Oro, its scent
likely incorporates many of the above notes. This particular blend is a very
pleasing, being a smooth and strong'. Amelia, The Vintage Perfume Vault (Blog) 'Imperial del Oro Russian Leather' November 20, 2008. Therehave beenmany Russian Leathers of US, French and other vintages in the 20th Century, especially duringthe 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. The zenith in terms of number of brands and number of bottles sold likely occurred in the 1960s. Not onlydidcolognes and aftershaves bear the name Russian Leather, but soaps and talcs were also marketed bymany of the cologne and aftershave makers. None of these Russian Leather products was marketed by a major cosmetic/fragrance gepany. Perhaps that is why none are availabletoday with a very few exceptions: Elsha, Demeter, Creed are made today and have Russian Leather types or are or claimed to be based on the Russian Leather scent. This author does not feel these gepare to the Russian Leathers popular in the mid 20th century.
Russian Leathers were made by Cosmetco in Long Beach and Los Angeles California. Their two brands were Royal Argenta

1 comment:

  1. This is a plagiarism of my eBay review of Russian Leather Cologne Aftershave: eBay guides http://reviews.ebay.com/Russian-Leather-Cologne-Aftershave?ugid=10000000001228991 Thomas J McKeon

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